|Seville Travel Guide|
Restaurants here are more expensive than most in Spain, but even around
the cathedral and the Barrio Santa Cruz, there are few places that can
simply be dismissed as tourist traps. Remember that in the evening the
'sevillanos', even more than most Andalusians, enjoy bar-hopping for tapas,
rather than sitting down to one meal; two Sevillanos in a bar is a party,
three is a fiesta!
Splendidly situated on the corner of the Jardines Alcazar, opposite the university, is one of Seville's best-loved restaurants, the Egana-Oriza, San Fernando 41, (95 422 7211). It serves the best of Andaluz and Basque cuisine. Included among its tempting delights are: spider crab mousse and escalope of goose in pear sauce. The restaurant also has the separately run Bar Espana for good fish and salad tapas.
North of the Giralda, you can dine well on French and Italian specialities at San Marco, Cuno 6 (95 421 2440) in a large old elegantly decorated sevillana house; try the ravioli stuffed with sea bass, crayfish salad or tournedos of duck foie gras.
By the cathedral in the narrow Argote de Monina is Meson Don Raimundo, a restaurant in what was once a convent. No enforced abstinence here, though. You can enjoy a large selection of fish, shellfish and game dishes amid an eclectic decor of religious artefacts and suits of armour.
Along the Triana side of the Guadalquivir, you can dine with a view of
the Torre del Oro and La Giralda at the restaurant Rio Grande, Calle Betis,
s/n (95 427 3956). The kitchen here specialises in regional cuisine, and
on a Sunday afternoon if there's a good corrida you can join in the roars
of ole that erupt from the bullring on the opposite bank. Along from here
is Ox's, Calle Betis, 61 (95 427 9585) with Basque novelties - cod stuffed
peppers and fish and steaks.
Bar Modesto is a short stroll from the cathedral serving breakfast, raciones and full meals. Kiosko de las Flores serves light fish lunches of boquerones, among other things. The place is an informal cafe-bar, right by the Puente de Isabel 11, and part of it looks over the water. Prices are a little high, a glorified fishy snack with a drink costs 1,300 pts but it's well worth the little extra for the ambience and view.
One of the most atmospheric tapas bars is the El Rinconillo, Gerona 42
which dates back to 1670 and is decorated with bright tiles and ochre
paint. There is a marvellous array of reasonable tapas here. This is where
the locals gather to spend the evening in loud animated chatter. The staff,
oblivious, chalk up the bill on the bar.
As well as the tapas bars mentioned above, the following may be recommended in Seville - all are centrally located.
El Bacalao - Plaza Ponce de Leon, 15
Becerrita - Calle Hernando Colon 1
Bodega la Albariza - Calle Betis 6
Casa Manolo - Calle San Jorge 6
Casa Omana,Plaza de los Venerables 1
La Estrella, Calle Estrella 3
Modesto, Calle Cueto
Sol y Sombre, Calle Castilla 151